The Impressionists at Musée d’Orsay

It’s March in Paris! I have a month to explore the city, spend hours in museums, and eat in as many restaurants and cafes as possible.

I have a lot to see in a month. I created a makeshift calendar and started arranging a schedule, taking into account museum open days and times. I’m avoiding weekends at the major sights. It’s winter, but Paris is busy! So far, I’ve made reservations for the Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, Orangerie, La Chapelle, and the Catacombs.

Practical information for the Musée d’Orsay

Today is my day at Musée d’Orsay. I booked my reservation for 10:30 (the hours are Tues-Sun are 9:30 – 6:00. Closed Mondays and Thursdays, it’s open until 9:45). The cost is 16 Euros (free on the first Sunday of the month, but get ready for a long line). If you want an audio guide, it’s 6 euros, but be sure to pick up a map guide. Allow at least 2 hours to get through the museum (not including lunch).

The digital ticket is on my phone, and it instructs me to go to Door A. I walked right in and through security without any delays.

The building was a former train station scheduled for the wrecking ball in 1970. Some clever person decided the space would be perfect for all the 19th-century art scattered in various museums around the city. The glass-barrel ceiling fills the building with light.

I had time to look through every room. However, most of my time was spent with the impressionists, especially Degas, Renoir, Manet, and Monet.

I love this Auguste Renoir of everyday Parisiens all dressed up to spend Sunday afternoon eating, drinking, dancing, and eating galettes. Old friends chatting over wine. The dancers, the clothing. Such a fun painting of life in Paris in the 1800s.

Or this Edouard Manet of the reclining woman with fans. She’s all dolled up and looks so carefree (or she’s been into the absinthe all afternoon.) I love her expression.

Manet’s picnic painting was the talk of Paris for a time. The contrast between the woman’s nude, very white body and the dark-suited, buttoned-up men was scandalous. I also like the way Manet creates a triangle with the woman coming out of the water on top. The nude woman is clearly the focal point, but your eyes travel around the painting. The strewn clothing and scattered picnic—what’s the story?

My first impression of this Mary Cassatt Girl in the Garden is that her pose is so familiar today. It could be called “Girl with Cell phone.”

I can look at Van Gogh’s work forever. I’ve spent time in Arles and St Remy, where he lived, worked, and suffered. He brought out the colors of the south of France. I loved his flow and quirkiness. I wonder what Vincent and Theo would think of the worldwide recognition he’s gained.

I spent time noticing the visitors. Art students sketching. A mother, perhaps an artist, pointing out details to her daughter and showing her how to use her camera (I miss my granddaughters!) The three high school girls with notepads. They could be working on a school project. I think many of the people in the museum were local. Nice.

I’m two hours in, and I need sustenance and a chair! The Cafe Campana is on the fifth floor and not too busy. I later realized that there was a beautiful dining room on the second floor. I had a good lunch at the Cafe, but I’ll choose the dining room next time!

Diningroom at the Musee